Sri Lanka’s longest Hindu festival is an incredible experience, but don’t forget traditional Nallur Kandaswamy Kovil food.
There’s one thing you’re guaranteed to experience in Jaffna, and that is delicious food.
Jaffna is renowned for its unique and flavorful cuisine. Tamil culture heavily influences local food flavors. And while it’s taboo to compare Sri Lanka to India, many dishes you find in South India also exist in northern Sri Lanka
Signature dishes include Jaffna crab curry, known for its rich, spicy flavor and mutton curry, often accompanied by string hoppers or rice. Coconut milk is a staple, used in many curries and desserts.
When we arrived to explore the northern region of Sri Lanka we had no idea we landed during the most important time of the year.
What is Nallur Kandaswamy Kovil?
The Nallur Kandaswamy festival is a vibrant celebration in Sri Lanka. It honors Lord Murugan, a popular Hindu deity. This festival takes place annually at the Nallur Kandaswamy Temple in Jaffna.
The event lasts for about 25 days, attracting thousands of devotees. Rituals include prayers, music and dance performances. A grand procession features a beautifully decorated chariot carrying the deity’s statue.
Devotees often engage in acts of devotion, such as fasting, kavadi rituals and offerings. Traditional music fills the air, creating a festive atmosphere. Colorful decorations and lights adorn the temple grounds and the people are equally colorful.
As I mentioned we knew nothing about it in advance and so we planned a Jaffna food tour with Tropical Ceylon, a company that curates culinary experiences using local experts.
Kiribath
Thankfully our guide Sumithy is a local journalist who reports to outlets around the world.
With her vast knowledge she was able to quickly incorporate this incredible experience while sharing as much food as she could.
Nallur Kandaswamy Festival Food
During this Hindu festival it’s best to stay at a guesthouse that serves food as many restaurants close during the day.
We visited the last few days on a weekend and everyone had closed shop, but we were able to scramble to find dinner at night.
There are many traditional Jaffna foods you can try around the Temple grounds such as mixture snacks, traditional drinks and plenty of candy.
But keep an eye out for these traditional foods at Nallur Kandaswamy Kovil.
Pongal
A sweet rice pudding cooked with jaggery, cardamom, raisins and cashews. Pongal doesn’t look that appetizing as it’s a shade of beige but the delicious smell will drive you to it.
Pongal is also important during celebrations. It is a symbol of prosperity offered as prasadam during the festival to honor Lord Murugan.
Puli Soru | Tamarind Rice
A tangy rice dish made with tamarind, mustard seeds, and peanuts, puli soru is flavorful and easy to enjoy on the go.
It’s a favorite snack for devotees during the festival due to its convenience and bold taste.
Tayir Sadam | Curd Rice
This dish of rice mixed with yogurt is often called curd rice in English. Tayir sadam is garnished with curry leaves and mustard seeds, providing a cool, soothing meal during the hot festival days.
In South India it’s known by several names: bagala bath, daddojanam, dahi chawal and thayir sadam. The image above is from South India where pomegranate seeds are common, but it’s usually a simpler version in Jaffna.
Modakam | Sweet Dumplings
Steamed rice flour dumplings filled with sweetened coconut and jaggery. Modakam is a symbolic offering of devotion and purity, frequently used in Hindu rituals and enjoyed as a sweet treat.
In South Asia it is known as kozhukattai.
Vadai
These crispy, savory lentil fritters are spiced with green chilies and curry leaves, making them a popular and convenient snack at the festival.
If you’re wondering why they aren’t called vada like in India, it’s because vada refers to a category of fried snacks, that include vadai.
However, while visiting Jaffna I did not know this. And so I asked for vada and everyone understood what I wanted.
Pittu
A steamed dish of rice flour and grated coconut, often served with coconut milk, sugar or bananas.
Pittu is a filling starch served alongside many items. I didn’t try it here but I did have it in Trincomalee with dal and it’s delicious.
Jaffna Sherbert
A traditional Sri Lankan Tamil drink that originated from the Persian word sharbat, meaning a sweet, refreshing drink.
Jaffna sherbet is not the same as Sri Lankan faluda, which typically includes rose syrup, sweetened milk and basil seeds. And it is often topped with jelly cubes or ice cream .
Jaffna sherbert is typically made with a blend of fruit juices, sugar, and ice, resulting in a light, fruity beverage. Commonly used fruits include lime, pineapple and orange, which give it a naturally tangy sweetness.
It has no dairy which is good for those who are lactose intolerant but beware mine was very sweet.
Local Fruits
There were so many vendors selling local Sri Lankan fruits like Jaffna grapes, mango, and velvet tamarind which is such an amazing sweet and sour treat.